Great Wall Marathon 19/05/07
Tried them all? Now try the Wall.
Ni hao (“Hello” in Chinese: pronounced ‘Nee how’).
My advice: It’s awesome! Go NOW while the appeal still lasts! There was a 60% increase in entries from 2006. I personally feel that this race’s success lies in the mutual and natural camaraderie which oozes out during this rather unique once-in-a-lifetime event and tour: this may well be lost should it become over-subscribed populated (I feel it is already approaching saturation point).
Joining one of the assigned touring groups is required in order to participate in this event (as is a visa). The British crowd in my touring party included one Portobello Scot and 3 Northern Irish lassies. Arriving in Beijing after a long flight from Heathrow brought reality home. Beijing’s 18 million inhabitants share a claustrophobic geographical area not far short of half of Scotland’s land space, but vastly different: a concrete jungle would be an apt description. Not surprisingly, Katie Melua’s song “Nine Million Bicycles in Beijing” sprang to mind (amidst the umpteen traffic jams). The unashamed glut of McDonalds and KFCs stared China’s Communist centralised economy in its face, while it bravely embraced these so-called delights of the western capitalist world.
Straight to the Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City with the Lost Palace (where the ‘Last Emperor’ was filmed). The Lama Temples are peaceful (especially the chanting of the Buddhist monks) and all constructed using the principles of Feng shui. The doors of a silk factory were darkened by our shadows too.
The hotel was great, and its location allowed easy investigation of the neighbourhood (3rd world rubbing shoulders with the 1st world) and its day-to-day suburban life with its street markets and eateries (and all that involves). The exchange rate of 14.2 ¥ (Yuan) per pound was quite favourable (for example, one Spanish-styled tapas or Greek mese-style meal cost 96 ¥ for 5 of us including drinks), typical prices also include 5 ¥ for a can of coke or post-haggle 2 ¥ for a polo shirt. The 2008 Beijing Olympics will, no doubt, drive the prices up. Haggling is part-and-parcel of this experience, however, be aware that fake ¥ notes abound and there are two ‘5’ notes: one is 5 Yuan and one is equal to ½ Yuan. Tipping is not recommended.
The next morning, some of the touring party had a wee jog to the local park, while others didn’t (says he sheepishly). 450 runners had entered the marathon, 1100 in total (including a half marathon, 10 km and 5 km event) coming from more than 40 countries in total.
We were offered an opportunity to visit a school the day before the run. It was, excuse the pun, quite educational indeed. By fluke chance, the students from the school I attended were involved in the marshalling of the course (so many recognised me, and offered much support in their broken English, to which I replied in what was beyond-rusty Chinese).
What may seem, on the surface, to be unusual, is the highly-recommended ‘Inspection Day’ of the wall, allowing us to soak in the atmosphere and offering us an opportunity to forge friendships, take photographs and ‘hit the wall’ for the first time. At Huangyaguan village, in the Ying and Yang square (race start-finish), a briefing was offered, outlining the demands of race day. Participants are permitted to change distance during the course of the ‘Inspection Day’ (unsurprisingly, most change up to the marathon).
Seeing The Wall for the first time is quite exhilarating. Check out the photos: Enough said!
Then off to the hotel in the city of Tianjin (south east of Beijing) by air-conditioned coach with our English-speaking guide. We were well accustomed to the Chinese ways by now, with its ‘communal’ toilets, spitting and smoking habits and even some of the Mandarin symbols (English is generally very poor indeed).
Hang on a bit. “Why was I in China?” I had to remind myself more than once that it was to participate in the Great Wall Marathon.
A chilly morning start was warmed up by a troupe of fan-waving Chinese girls and musicians at the entrance to Ying-Yang Square: Followed by the obvious calls of nature and an aerobics session (for those who deemed it necessary, of course).
It was at this time that I remembered that I had actually run a 6:34 mile the week before at the Penicuik 10km. That would become a distant memory as the Marathon’s miles went by. I started in Group 2 and toddled off at snail’s pace (knowing, firstly, that more than my usual weekly mileage would be taken care of in just one race, and, secondly, that I needed to keep something in reserve for the Edinburgh Marathon a week later).
The term ‘running race’ is rather a flimsy term to use, what with all those steps, the steepness of the hills, the goat tracks and gravel-rocky paths to be traversed over the next few hours: Some participants ran some of the way, nobody raced it. On that note, may I strongly suggest that you do not spoil your ‘run’ by wearing your ‘running’ watch (nobody, quite frankly, cares about their time, except to reach the 35 km and 42.2 km marks in their respective 6- and 8-hour cut-offs).
A ‘casual’ windy pine-lined tarred 5km (all distance markers are in km) uphill jog took us to the entrance of The Wall and to the first of what seemed like a million steps. The thought of never (voluntarily) doing any hill work (except for that little speed bump at Colliesdene) crossed my mind more than once, I can assure you. Those wishing to do this race, may I suggest a few sessions of walking the steps up to the Wallace Monument a multitude of times to get a feel for what you’ll discover here.
The frequent supply of water and sports electrolyte drinks were extremely welcome considering the blisteringly hot cloudless conditions of 36°C / 100°F. I consumed an estimated 15 litres of liquid during the event, and about 3 afterwards. While running with a gent from Holland, he questioned his moral discomfort of us ‘rich’ westerners running through the ‘poor’ villages. I remarked that I saw it quite the opposite: As an honour. And indeed a few miles later, after high-fiving our way through strings of local Chinese kids, he agreed with me. The rough gravel paths make it a bit shoogly underfoot, so could take their toll, so mind your step (unlike yours truly, who conveniently sprained his ankle at the 5 mile mark – but refused to stop, even though another 20 miles required navigation).
The route takes one into what seemed like the outer reaches of Chairman Mao’s territory, passing through villages with quaint names like Dhuanzhuang, Xiaying and Qingshanling. Yet another long winding rustic footpath alongside some cultivated fields, the local crofters were drying their crops and making things like baskets and bean curd. I could appreciate this agricultural existence more than most participants, what with a walking pace of about 15 minutes per mile. Along the way, I made acquaintance with Argentineans, Mexicans, Italians, French, Danish, Kiwis, Americans and other Brits amongst others.
And then back onto The Wall again. Steps? What steps? Chaffing had already badly taken its toll on me, and made for rather tender walking, and no amount of Vaseline (not available at the on-course medical posts, by the way) could relieve it any more. So we just get on with it – slowly. Encouraging back-runners and strugglers became a pastime at this stage of the event. It motivated me too. Singing The Proclaimer’s ‘500 Miles’ did the same trick.
And seeing the Fort surrounding Ying-Yang Square from the 41km mark really encouraged me to get to the finish line to collect that medal I was already starting to treasure.
Entering the Ying-Yang Square (for the final time) to what seemed like a personal announcement over the PA system was actually the indication to me to begin my celebrations: Which I did quietly with the support of some co-members of my touring group. Strangely, walking became highly challenging at this stage; so all assistance I was offered was graciously accepted. This was a personal goal I needed to accomplish: mine was amongst hundreds of various personal stories, milestones, goals or lifetime achievements associated with this event. It is only at the finish that you’ll really appreciate why one’s ‘race’ time is irrelevant.
Back to Beijing (passing yet another village being submerged by yet another new dam – as a result of the huge amount of economic and infrastructure development taking place in China at present) for a well deserved shower and rest and organised ‘Imperial’ dinner (as the Emperor would enjoy). Take an alarm clock to avoid some unnecessary wake-up calls.
It was now also time to admire one’s (impressive) medal and shirt, all included in the tour fee (along with the transport, airport transfers, hotel accommodation, Gala Dinner, almost all meals, entry into the tourist sites and your champion chip – unless you have your own). Other Great Wall Marathon souvenirs are available such as polo shirts, caps and fleeces.
The next day or 2 involved visits to the hectic, manic Silk Street Market to haggle away to your hearts content through the countless stores for bargains such as ‘Rolex’ watches, clothes, iPods, memory cards, silk goods, Laughing Buddhas, or you can choose to do what I did, get out of there and run for your life.
To balance that out, the Temple of Heaven with its ‘Stairway to Heaven’ and ‘Heaven’ itself at the Taoist Temple was indeed a breath of thought-provoking fresh air. Then the visit to the calm and sedate rural farmer’s market put much perspective back into this hectic development that is happening across China.
A punch of contortionism at the world-famous Beijing Acrobatics Show added a gasp of exasperation from everyone in the audience: Quite unlike the quietness that epitomised the Summer Palace environment. And the relatively formal (included in tour price) Gala Dinner held at the Beijing Sheraton, nonetheless, was a superb way for all participants to share addresses, smiles, stories, experiences and photographs.
Although I never made it to see the Terracotta Army, watching the locals performing their own Tai Chi in a local park and the flag-raising ceremony at Tiananmen Square made up a wee bit.
Now that the Edinburgh Marathon is history too, I have delight in telling Coach Lynn that I have, after 8 months, reached Ma Formans (and twice in a day).
“Xièxie” (“Thank you” in Chinese: pronounced “shea-shea”).
Report and photos Andrew Fraser
Website: www.great-wall-marathon.com
